Kushinager - The Last Days in India

by Peter

“Yetra nari pujante, gamante sarwa devataha. “ – Where women are worshipped, the gods and goddesses abide.

“Now, another morning has come to timeless India, another day of plowing fields, hauling water, raising children, burning the dead. Beggars sit with bloodshot eyes, matted hair, and gaunt bellies, hands and feet withered and deformed, breathing the oily soot of the streets. They appear crazed, anguished, and despairing, or impartial, proud, and serene, offering the teaching of their existence, asking for generosity.”

“My sense of self is dissolving, as I see my illness reflected in the gaunt faces and sunken eyes around me. I am suffering, yet how much more others must feel the same misery, the same persistent burning in the throat, the same headache, the same twisting of the bowels. In this feverish delirium it is easy to understand the warnings of wise renunciates: from its glamorous heights to its terrifying depths, samsara is a sea of fire and a battlefield of razor-sharp weapons, in which we shall ultimately find nothing but sorrow.”

We came to where Buddha died, and so did a part of me. I hope it is part of the judge. The beauty of this place was telling, from the orange blanket covering the dying reclining buddha to the renovated Ashok Pillar. As for Merit, the number of projects helping to build this poor 1000 person community are numerous. Their is a name for the foundation but I forget exactly what is is. I do remember our guide mentioned establishing a Buddhist University and Medical School with Hospital. The major funders are the Thai and Japanese Governments.

Going For a Ride in the Car

by Teri Gerritz

Most of our trip in India is by private car. Peter and I are the only passengers and at times a guide joins the driver. We sit in the back. We have our place. A driver is your protector, He navigates roads and road conditions that make any obstacle course you’ve played on any simulation or video game look like child’s play that you’d have to play blindfolded with one hand behind your back to have it resemble any fair type of competition, As previously stated everyone and everything “shares” the road from animals with and without attached contraptions to people walking or attached to any use of wheels that were invented in every period of history.

On top of this, anyone who has ever traveled with Peter knows that he likes to use the time for anything but interacting with you or the scenery. On this trip he was watching 16 2hr acupuncture lectures. Ergo I was not to interact with his holiness the doctor. Luckily the driver on our Buddha loop was friendly , contrasting with the army like demeanor or invisibility perhaps due to language of our other drivers. He invited me to sit in the front seat. Of course, I leaped at the opportunity.

He pointed out great sites like the mango tree climbers who make 35-40 trips /day up and down the trees that can be 30ft high. Unfortunately some spaced out macho motorcyclist didn’t observe and banged into us. This was after the previously peaceful wonderful day in Bodhgaya where we were full of monks and spirituality. It was in a village and we were the outsiders, sort of like wearing blue in a red zone, but without guns. Peter agreed to back up the driver if need be. He humbly stated he could take out 17 of them. We agreed with the driver it wasn’t his fault. He had some words with the motorcyclist that we couldn’t understand and got back in the car. No one was hurt and we continued but the motorcyclist pursued us and we got stuck on a bridge together. The motorcyclist came up to the car and started harassing the driver. The driver asked Peter to step out with him and Peter did and stood in true Enforcer form. He thought our driver was at fault , probably out of embarrassment , anger , guilt, fear at having to tell the family he had hurt their motorcycle and if he couldn’t fix it not having the money to do so. Mind you most families feel lucky to own a bike. I’m sure to his way of thinking man in car rich… just like they see us as money cows. Anyway, he pushed the driver slightly and in true fashion Peter gave him that look and said stop. He tried to get into Peter’s space and touched him but Peter let him know in Body Language that he was fearless. Of course the young men from his village were supporting and egging him on. All I could think to do was lock my door, meditate on taking in anger and sending out peacefulness and take a picture. An elder got the young man to get on his bike and we drove away. When it was safe our driver stopped to assess the damage. He had to drive and stop at several village markets before finding glue, screws and a screw driver so he could fix the damaged fender and brake lights while we visited an old brick jail where some king was shackled by chains underground by his power hungry son who probably didn’t want him spending money on temples for the Buddha… Someone has to non-compete with Peter’s knowledge of history and who better than a BS history major from the 60’s like me. We complimented our driver on his great repair job and Peter wrote a dramatic account of the incident and our drivers bravery from the perspective of Dr. Gerritz and American Law.

Meanwhile I fed my voyeurism and natural interest in how people get their needs met by asking questions of the driver, listening, looking and adding facts I learned from guides and the one or two Indian businessmen who would talk to you. I haven’t seen an American since I left Delhi and only saw the one I knew there.(Another story) the other whites have been French and 1 italian and a Canadian. Je comprend mais je parle “franish” a language of my own made up of any word in any form I can remember of either language. The following is a picture of information I got from several days on the “road”

If I were reincarnated as the hindu believe and married to a tour car driver this is what my life might be like. Trust me in India, except maybe in the biggest cities, if you are a woman you want to get married. In most places I was afraid to go out on my own and in Patna, Peter was so glad to have us escorted to the internet place that was at most two blocks away. Now this is in boring reporting form according to the sage but I’m too lazy to change it. To story form. I leave it up to you. It wasn’t part of my dowry.

Our driver and his wife were born in different villages near Varanasi on the Ganges River about 30 years ago to a a family of 4 brothers and 1 sister. . His parents died when he was young and he was raised by an uncle. 1 brother made the move to New Delhi. The rest live in villages near by. He was married, arranged of course, when he was 15 and his wife was of similar age or a year younger and he got his mother’s house. They had their first child about 3 years later. If a women does not produce a child in that time span a man may divorce her.

He learned some English at school for a year or two and then has learned from the tourists he drives around. His whole family reads and writes. He has worked as a car driver for the tour company for five years which he likes and makes it possible for him to only have one job. Note only about 20% of the men and 1% of the women drive. Before that he worked as a truck driver which is a very hard and much poorer paying job. When he works as a driver during tourist season of October thru March he doesn’t have much time with his family. But between June to August he spends much time with them. On the road he can become lonely and sleeps in his car. Last night he had a treat, the driver of the Chinese tourists’ bus who was also from Varanasi but unknown to him. invited him to sleep on the bus. So he not only got companionship but a better place to sleep. They are of course dependent on our tips as well as salary. Yesterday, after the accident , we gave him a 200 rupee bonus for surviving a day that all I saw was accidents for the first time along the road. This because we were mainly in a poor, small, rural areas where they can’t afford road police.

He feels comfortable in his house made of grass which is in many ways more breathable than brick and I think prettier looking. He repairs it about every two years. In a really bad monsoon it will leak a little. His wife can cook inside and they have an inside well that goes down 85 feet. He has two rooms; one for sleeping and one for the rest of the family activities. The bathroom is outside of the house. I do not know if it is just for his family or shared. They use kerosene for their lighting. There seems to be a shared electricity pole from which he takes 1 wire and pays about 300 rupees a month(Divide by 42 to get dollars; hint form retired math loving teacher). They can use it for a few hours a day. They have a black and white TV. His children who he buys treats for when on the road aged 12, 10, and 8 , are two boys and a girl, and he will not have more children because it is too expensive, watch cartoons. He can afford to send them to convent school for 300 rupee a month. These schools are better and have smaller classes. As a family they go to the movies every 2-3 months. Family movies are several hours long and are shown 4 times each day in 3 hour blocks. They usually will see the same show twice and then talk about it for quite a while afterwards. He owns a bicycle. If the family wants to go into the city or visit family at another village they take the bus. I am not sure if it is a bus where they can sit together or one where the men climb on top and the women and children ride inside.
His wife owns 3 sari’s; two for daily wear and a finer one for festivals, celebrations. Daily saris need to be replaced yearly and a fine one will last 5-6 years. They are Hindu and he only likes Indian food. He does not drink and said that is done mainly by foolish young men and people in the cities. He doesn’t play cards like I have sen the men doing in shops along the road but he does buy a lottery ticket. As a child he was too busy to play stick ball and other games. He is small in stature very soft spoken and outgoing and judging by his teeth perhaps chews in private. He is very protective of us. He helped us walk to the internet café in Patna. To drive here you have to be very clever and alert. He knows how to fix things when they are broken. They have a small pet dog and a parrot. They have a small garden with a few flowers, herbs, and vegetables but his wife goes to market daily and has the people she buys from. She is a homemaker.

He has a good life and has done well for himself. He is in this band that does better than the farmers but is not quite the new middle class. Because he works for the travel company he has a cell phone of his own to use. The car he returns to them when he is not driving for them.

I find it all beautiful but am ready to return with this knowledge to my current reincarnation and be thankful for the time, place and culture that I live in. I will however revisit my possessions and downsize and share with others.

Rajgir, Nalanda - Remnants of a Buddhist Empire in India

by Peter

We left wonderful, magnificent Bodhgaya this morning to visit the holy sites of Rajgir and Nalanda. Our first stop for the day was the hilltop of Rajgir to a Japanese Peace Pagoda and caves that duirng the lifetime of the Buddha.

Rajgir is encircled by five holy hills. It lies at a distance of approximately 34 km from the city of Bodhgaya. The name of the town is derived from the words 'Raj Griha', meaning 'the abode of the king'. During the lifetime of Buddha, Rajgir served as the capital city of the Magadh Empire. The city hosted Buddha during the reign of rule of Bimbisara who was overwhelmed, along with many citizens, by the charm and grace of Lord Buddha. Here the two rock-cut caves were the favourite retreats of the Buddha and it was on this hill that he preached two of his most famous sermons.

Built on a hallowed site where the Buddha had often stayed, Nalanda is one of the world's oldest living cities. The Buddhist University of Nalanda, once the most prestigious center of learning in Asia, was built here. The evocative ruins of its monasteries and temples still convey a vivid impression of the serene and ordered life of contemplation and learning that prevailed here. Nalanda is located 14 kms. from Rajgir.It is well known as the ancient centre of learning which has the remains of the great Nalanda University and several monasteries and temples. Both Lord Buddha and Mahavira visited this place and it remained a renowned learning centre till 12th century when Muslims raiders destroyed it. Kings of Gupta, Kushan and Palva dynasties were the chief patrons of the centre, who built several monasteries and temples. The famous Chinese traveller Hieun Tsang studied here and his documents provide details about the university. Ayuverdic and Tibetan Medicine can also trace part of their roots here. In fact, most of the Ayuverdic practiced today was developed at Nalanda.

On an interesting side note, Nalanda was a flourishing University by 1st Century BCE. It is wispered that men from the west came and studied here. I can think a pretty well known Hebrew who lived in that time and was said to have traveled east. Comment on who I am thinking of.

Bodhgaya, Vaishali, Kesariya - April 22nd

Bodhgaya

“Crimson Lotuses float in translucent ponds, and pilgrams from the four corners of the world pray in the shade of the venerable Bodhi tree. They have come with restless minds, peaceful minds, exhausted bodies, euphoric bodies, karma-ripening bodies, to the listen to the Dharma [teaching] and be uplifted by its compassion. Tibetans call Bodhgaya DORJE DEN [the diamond seat in the navel of the world]. They say it is where every Buddha of the past has become enlightened, and every Buddha of the future will, for it is the only place on earth that can withstand the power of such an awakening. The garden around the sacred Bodhi tree is filled with images of Sakyamuni, the Budha of this eon, standing, meditating, teaching, reclining, carved in stone, cast in metal, and painted on cloth. Inside the Mahabodhi Temple, faithful from around the world showere his golden feet with flowers, find happiness gazing upon his beatific smile, and add their prayers to the echoes of the ages.”

Bodhgaya is the most important Buddhist pilgrimage site in the world. The original Bodhi tree’s descendant, whose roots happily clutch the same soil as its celebrated ancestor, is the site where Buddha attained enlightenment. Thankfully, before Emperor Ashoka;s wife murdered the original Bodhi Tree, a sapling from it was carried to Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, by Sanghamitta (Ashoka’s daughter). That tree continues to flourish and from which, in turn, a cutting was carried back to Bodhgaya and planted where the original had stood. The red sandstone slab under it was placed by Ashoka, and marks the spot of Buddha’s enlightenment –it’s referred to as the Vajrasan (Diamond Throne).On the surface, nothing remains here from 26 centuries ago, when Prince Siddharta Gautama transformed himself into the enlightened one under the Bodhi tree; however, the sweetly palpable atmosphere remains. The true working Buddhist centre is a small leaf-laden town. Most large countries with a Buddhist population have a temple leading to an intriguing display of architecture. Thus, the Thai Wat is brightly coloured, just as in Thailand. The Tibetan Karmal Temple and Namgyal Monastery each contain sizeable prayer wheels and the Indosan Nipponji Temple is donned with a Japanese pagoda roof. Next to the Japanese temple, lies the 25m-high Great Buddha Statue, unveiled by H.H. the Dalai Lama in 1989. Adjacent to the spot where Buddha formulated his philosophy of life, rises the magnificent Mahabodhi Temple, a world heritage site. The Mahabodhi Temple was constructed in the 6th Century CE atop the site of the temple erected by Emperor Ashoka almost 800 years earlier. After being razed by 11th-century Muslim invasions, the temple underwent major restorations, the last occurring in 1882. Topped by a 50m pyramidal spire, the ornate structure houses a large gilded image of Buddha. Amazingly, four of the original sculpted stone railings surrounding the temple, dating from the Sunga period (184-172 BCE), have survived among the replicas.

Kesariya

Rising 10 stories out of earth, where the dying Buddha donated his begging bowl, is an enthralling juxtaposition of history and nature. Each year archaeologists continue to remove nature’s lush, forested veil, revealing what’s likely the world’s 2nd-tallest Buddhist Stupa, which dates to the Pala period (6th Century CE). From above, the nine uniquely shaped terraces (seven currently exposed) form a gargantuan Buddhist Tantric Mandala diagram with a circumference of 425m.





Vaishali

In the 6th century BCE, Vaishali was home to one of the world’s first democratic republics. It’s also where Lord Mahavira, the 24th and final Jain tirthankar, was born and raised. Buddha preached his last sermon here, where today the ruins of the Kolhua Complex lay. Most remarkable is the noble lion atop the 2300-year-old Ashoka pillar. There is also a gleaming Japanese Peace Pagoda next to a Lotus pond.

Varanasi

Varanasi

The city of Shiva, is one of the holiest Hindu cities in India. Hindu pilgrams come wash away all their sins in the Ganges. Varanasi was previously called Benares and Kashi (City of Life) and has always been an auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers moksha – liberation from the cycle of birth and death. The city is in the beating heart of the Hindu universe, a crossing place between the physical and spiritual worlds, and the Ganges is viewed as a river of salvation, an everlasting, ever flowing symbol of hope to past, present, and future generations. The magical and sometimes overwhelming city is where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public on the city’s famous ghats. Varanasi has been a centre of learning and civilization for over 3000 years, and claims to be one of the oldest cities in the world. Mark Twain wrote that ‘Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.’ Its history dates back to 1400 BCE, but it was around 8th Century CE that Varanasi rose in prominence when Shankaracharya,a reformer of Hinduism, established Shiva worship as the principal sect. The Muslim Afghans destroyed Varanasi around 1300 CE, after laying waste to nearby Sarnath, but the fanatical Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was the most destructive, looting and destroying almost all of the temples. The old city of Varanasi may look antique, but few buildings are more than a couple hundred years old.

Ghats

Varanasi’s principal attraction is the long string of ghats that line the western bank of the Ganges. Most are used for bathing, but there are several ‘burning ghats’ where bodies are cremated in public. Around 80 ghats border the river. The ghats extend from Assi Ghat, s near the university, northwards to Raj Ghat, near the road and rail bridge. It’s a unique, world class ‘people-watching’ walk as you mingle with the fascinating mixture of people who come to the Ganges not only for a ritual bath but also to wash clothes, do Yoga, offer blessings, sell flowers, get a shave, improve their karma by giving to beggers, or simply loiter.

"With Mr. Singh, our local guide, we gathered together our flower offering and cremations remains to make our own offering to the river Ganges. With the sun rising, I think Grandmother Isle would have been happy to know both the mother Ganges and Surya, the sun god, recieved her."

Benares Hindu University

Varanasi has long been a centre of learning and that continues today at the large and well-regarded Benares Hindu University, which was established in 1917. Founded by nationalist Pandi Malaviya as a centre for education, Indian art, music, culture, philosophy, and Sankrit, it now offers courses in just about every single subject and has 14,000 students including 2,000 foreigners. The New Vishwanath Temple, unlike most temples in Varanasi, is open to all, irrespective of caste or religion.

Sarnath - The Buddhas First Sermon

Sarnath – April 19th, 2007
By Peter

Buddha came to Sarnath, 10km northeast of Varanasi, to preach his message of the middle way to nirvana after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya. He gave his famous first sermon here to a handful of followers in a deer park which has recently been recreated. The Buddha is said to have been the king of deers in that Sarnath Park in one of his past lives. In the 3rd Century BCE, the India King Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected as well as an engraved pillar. When Xuan Zang, a Chinese traveler, visited by in 640 CE, Sarnath had a 100m-high stupa and 1500 monks living in over 100 monasteries. However, soon after, Buddhism in India, went into decline, and when the Muslim invaders invaded in the 12th Century CE, they destroyed and desecrated the city’s buildings. The city was lost for almost a millennium until in 1835 CE, British Archaeologists started excavations and Sarnath was rediscovered. A revival has been set in motion starting in the 1950s among intellectuals disillusioned with the caste system. The number of followers has been further increased with the influx of Tibetan Refugees and His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
Now set in a peaceful park, surrounded by Buddhist temples from Tibet, China, Thailand, Japan, Burma, and Sri Lanka, are the monastery remains an the impressive 34m Dhanekh Stupa, which marks the spot where the Buddha preached his first sermon. The floral and geometric carving dates back to the 5th Century CE, but some of the brickwork is thought to be even older at around 200 BCE. Emperor Ashoka is said to have meditated in the main shrine, but only its foundation has survived. The famous four-lion standard that used to be on top of the nearby Ashoka pillar is seen at the nearby Archaeological Museum.

An Enlightened Emperor

Apart from the Mughals and then the British many centuries later, no other power controlled more Indian territory than the Mauryan Empire. It is therefore fitting that is provided India with one of its most significant historical figures.
Emperor Ashoka’s rule was characterized by a period of flourishing art and sculpture, while his reputation as a philosopher-king was enhanced by the rock-hewn edicts he used to both instruct his people and delineate the enormous span of his territory.
Ashoka’s reign also represented an undoubted historical high point for Buddhism. He embraced the religion in 262 BCE, declaring it the state religion and cutting a radical swathe through the spiritual and social body of Hinduism. The extant highlights of Ashokan Buddhism are visible in Sarnath (on the spot where Buddha delivered his first sermon expounding the Noble Eightfold Path, or Middle Way to Enlightenment). Ashoka also sent missions abroad, and he is revered in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) because he sent his son and daughter to carry Buddhism to the island.
The long shadow this emperor of the 3rd century BCE still casts over India is evident from the fact that Ashoka’s standard, which topped many pillars, is now the seal of the modern-day India and its national emblem, chosen to reaffirm the ancient commitment to peace and goodwill.
Our guide for this adventure Singh, was a retired assistant professor of philosophy who started out solely interested in Western philosophy but after meeting an enlightened Yogi, started to look back at his own Eastern Philosophy. Up until this point, I was very impressed with most of our guides, but Singh blew then out of the water. Whether discussing Descartes to Ashokas rule, Singh had an excellent grasp of it all. His current books to read are Ken Wilbers, a Brief History of Everything, and Stephen Hawking, the History of the Universe. From the Park, we made ourselves to the Sri Lankan Monastery to see the descendent of the Bodhi tree which was sent with Ashokas daughter in the 3rd Century brought back to sit close to where Buddha was enlightened. While meditating on Metta (loving kindness) for loved ones who have died in my lifetime, I was beset with uncontrollable tears. My whole body shook in a way that I had not experienced since my time at Wat Pa Nana Chat in Thailand.
Sarnath Park and its museum may not have been as large as the Mughal Forts and Palaces, but to gaze upon the 2300 year old pillar standard, still intact, after its religious centers had moved East and South almost 1000 years ago speaks of its power. It makes me think of how the Dalai Lama says he does not hate the Chinese even though he was exiled out of Tibet. In the end, I believe it is the intention of every Bodhisattva to help others reach closer to enlightenment. The Dalai Lama might not have known that his exile would help to reignite the flame of Buddhism in India and China while also helping Buddhism spread west to Europe and the New World, but he continued his ethical path and look what flowered.
I think the final laugh really will be on the Chinese Government for trying to subjugate a people with different beliefs because there has been a resurrection of Buddhism in China, and with a growing middle class, the Maoist Centralized Communist Government will see its fall just as the Mughals saw their empire crumble for subjugating the non-muslims. I just hope that the Mara (trickster deity) inspired materialism that causes so much suffering in the United States with its premise that material possessions bring happiness, casts little influence on the emerging new Republic of China. In the end truth prevails as the pillar states. For our future, may we all cultivate a better Sangka (community) by accepting that we are all Buddhas, but just have different Dhammas (paths).

The Buddhist Circuit

Buddhism in India

Buddhism arose in the 6th Century BCE as a reaction against the strictures of Brahminical Hinduism. The Buddha (Awakened One) is believed to have lived from about 563 to 483 BCE. Formerly a prince (Siddhartha Gautama), the Buddha, at the age of 29, embarked on a quest for emancipation from the world of suffering. He achieved nirvana (the state of full awareness) at Bodhgaya at the age of 35. Critical of the caste system and the unthinking worship of gods, the Buddha urged his disciples to seek truth within their own experiences. Buddha taught that existence is based on:

Four Noble Truths –
1) Life is rooted in suffering;
2) Suffering is caused by craving worldly things;
3) One can find release from suffering by eliminating craving;
4) Way to eliminate craving is by following the Noble Eightfold Path.

Noble Eightfold Path –
1) Right understanding
2) Right intention
3) Right speech
4) Right action
5) Right livelihood
6) Right Effort
7) Right Awarness
8) Right Concentration

By successfully complying with these one can attain Nirvana.

The Buddhist Circuit

The Buddhist (or Lotus) Circuit is a pilgrams trail that follows in the footsteps of Lord Buddha, wending its way primarily through the province of Bihar, where Buddha spent most of his time.
In Bodhgaya, the most sacred of all Buddist sites, lies Mahabodhi Temple, next to the very spot Prince Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment and became the Buddha more than 2500 years ago which also houses a Bodhi tree descended from the original tree Buddha sat under. Next, Sarnath, near Varanasi, is where Buddha first preached his message after achieving enlightenment. Rajgir, Venevamas, and Sapti Pari Cave were where Buddha spent much of his life. Along the way, stop at the ancient philosophical center of learning Nalanda. Then, head northwest to Patna to glimpse sculptures from Buddhist sites at Patna Musuem. North to Kushinagar,the location of Buddha’s death, before crossing the border into Nepal. Finally, to Lumpini, the place of the Buddha’s’ death.

The Mughals - A Dead Empire

The Mughals

The Mughal Empire was massive and covered, at its height, almost the entire subcontinent. Its significance, however, laid not only its size. Mughal emperors presided over a golden age of arts and literature in India and built some of the more famous Indian architecture still standing today. In particular, Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal that ranks as one of the wonders of the world.
The founder of the Mughal line was Babur, whom allegedly was a descendent of both Genghis Khan (a great sacker) and Tamerline (a great sacker and desecrater of non-Muslim religions and their people). In 1525 CE, armed with this almost mythological lineage (umm sounds like the Virgils claim in the Aeneid that Romans are the descendents of Troy), he marched into Punjab from his capital of Kabul, Afghanistan. With technological superiority (firearms), and consummate skill in simultaneously employing artillery (cannons) and cavalry (horseback), Babur defeated the numerically superior armies of the Sultan of Delhi at the Battle of Paniput in 1526 CE.

Despite this initial success, Babur’s son, Humayun was defeated by a powerful ruler of eastern India, Sher Shah, in 1539 and forced to withdraw to Iran. Following Sher Shah’s death in 1545, Humayun returned to claim his kingdom, eventually conquering Delhi in 1555. He died the following year and was succeeded by his young son Akbar whom, during his 49-year reign, managed to extend and consolidate his empire until he ruled over a mammoth area.




True to his name, Akbar (Great One in Arabic), was probably the greatest of the Mughals, for he not only had the military ability required of a ruler at that time, but he was also a just and wise man of culture. He saw, as previous Muslim rulers had not, that the number of Hindus in India was too great to subjugate. Although Akbar was no saint – rumours of massacres of Hindus still tarnish his legacy – he remains known for integrating Hindus into his empire and using them as advisers, generals, and administrators. Akbar also had a deep interest in spiritual matters and spent many hours in discussion with religious experts of the worlds major religions of the day.


Jehinger ascended to the throne following Akbar’s death. Despite several challenges to the authority of Jehangir himself, the empire remained more or less intact. In periods of stability, Jehangir took the opportunity to spend time in his beloved Kashmir, eventually dying on route in 1627 CE. He was succeeded by his son, Shah Jahan, who secured his position as emperor by executing all male relatives who stood in his way. During his reign, some of the most vivid, permanent, and costly reminders of Mughal influence were contructed. In addition to the Taj Majal, he also oversaw the contruction of the Red Fort in Delhi and converted Agra Fort into a palace that would later become his prison for his decadence and depletion of the Mughal Empire Treasury (can a certain village idiot have the same thing done, please …).


The last of the great Mughals, Aurangzeb, the youngest son, imprisoned his father (Shah Jahan) and succeeded to the throne after a two-year struggle against his brothers who by right of Primogeniture were set to inherit the kingdom. Aurangzeb, with a much depleted treasury, devoted his remaining resources to extending the empires boundaries, and fell into the same trap another previous Muslim ruler had done earlier. He, too, tried moving his capital south and imposed heavy taxes to fund his military. A combination of decaying court life and religious intolerance weakened the Mughal grip (sounds like a certain Empire of today).The empires fortunes began a descent with Delhi being sacked by another Muslim, Persia’s Nadir Shah in 1739. Then continued with a joint British-Bengali invasion led with Bengals greater numbers and Britain superior firearms.

Jaipur

by Teri Gerritz

Staying at a converted maharaji palace… beautiful room.. feel like the time of the colonists and am glad to be behind the walls.. so much cooler than on the street. Wonderful gardens and birds,, peacocks hoping rooftop to roof, water lilies, eagles according t Peter, bats and about 11 other varieties… pigs, cows, goats , camels…. The help dresses like out of a kipling fairytale… where is the cobra and the mongoose. Incredible dinner with garlic naan that melts in your mouth spinach paneeer like none I’ve had… cauliflower and potatoes good but more like home.. superb dancing and music… dancing with heads on fire in can, a flame eater and fie thrower… a woman who danced with seven pots on her head… after peter left took the invite to go on stage and try to dance with them,,, magical night climbed the stairs and had an over view of the city complete with lighted temples and castles loved the drive from 100 plus years ago to decorated trucks and trailers of today and every means of transportation sharing the road….gratitude for being one who has the comforts life like stories I have read.…So good to be out of self.. dinner on the green in the warm evening.. no humidity. So pleasant relaxing.

Indian idiocracy - the misadventures of my mother and I

From the wonderful lush, clean scrublands of South Africa, I descended into the chaotic, filthy, abyss that is India.

[Warning: The following blog entries are authored by myself or my mother]

by Peter

My Indian idiocracy did not initially begin in India, but in the bush of South Africa. Five days before I was scheduled to leave my fathers house in Thailand to New Delhi, India, I recieved an ominous email. My mother had just been to the Indian Consulate in San Francisco where she had applied for a $60.00 tourist visa. While there, she learned that 1) American Citizens require a visa for entry into the Republic of India; and 2) Visas could not be purchased in the Republic of India.

For the next three days, between morning and evening game drives, I panicked. I used all the resources of the luxury Ulusaba Resort to establish contact with the Indian Consulate in Johannesburg, while simultaneously trying to call the Indian Embassy in Bangkok, Thailand and in Kathmandu, Nepal. I had just weeks earlier confirmed my eighteen day tour of northeastern India with Indian Holiday Pvt. LTD; I like to call them incredibly horrible pricey liars but thats enough hate for now. In all my travelling, I have taken for granted that an American Passport is all that is needed for entry into most countries. In worse case scenario, like Turkey in 2003, you can pay double the normal price at the airport. However, India does not work that way. I should have known. A country with a millenium age caste system is a recipe for the worst and biggest bueracracy ever. It puts to shame the Berkeley High attendence ladies. Unfortunately, the Indian Consulate refused to talk with the staff of Ulusaba and seemed to enjoy hanging up on my cries for help.

I left Ulusaba separately from the rest of my family to try my luck with the Consulate in person. Thankfully South Africa bueracracy came crashing down somewhat with Apartheids end and for $300.00 I had my visa in a day. I left the next morning for Thailand and then the next day for India. I arrived in New Delhi on April 14th and made my way after being ripped off 60 rupee (40 rupees = $1) met my mom at a hotel in New Dehli