Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Australasia day 2: The Tongariro Crossing and climbing Mt. Doom



I awoke this morning at 5:30am to pack up, and hydrate before starting, "one of the greatest one day walks in the world, " the Tongariro Crossing. Situated in the Tongariro National Park, an area rich in cultural identity, it has dramatic scenery and unique land forms that combine to make the Tongariro Alpine Crossing a world-renowned trek. The 18.5 kilometre journey includes steep climbs and unpredictable weather.
I started off at the Mangatepopo carpark and the first section was fairly flat, contining up the valley following the Mangatepopo stream and around the edge of old lava flows. I passed the first landmark, the Ketetahi Hut, before taking a detour to have a drink at Soda Springs. [insert image here].
The next part involved climbing from 1400 up to 1600 metres above sea level, "known as the devils staircase." I walked over layers of ancient and modern lava flows and other volcanic debits before reaching South Crater. At that momento I decided to climb a mountain, Mt Ngauruhoe, "aka Mt.Doom," from Lord of the Rings. The climb is steep and their are not marked trails. I just found my own path. It was very difficult and for every 2 steps I took, I slipped backwards one. After I reached about half way up the summit, I changed my path to scamper over the rocks. Later I learned: Head for the old lava flow as it is very difficult if you try to climb up the scree. Damn Scree. The summit was beautiful and being above the clouds is always great. Their was even a huge crater at the top of mountain and I had a snack break at the top as I caught my breath, and looked peered over the edge and tried not to think about having to go back down. I decided to go Scree surfing as my descend plan. Rather than slowly climbing back down the mountain, I decided to ride down a small pebble and volcanic earth trail. I fell several times, but I looked over and so people from the lava flow rock snapping photos. I was exhausted as I shoot thru the cloud layer and into the valley below.
The next part of the track involved going from South Crater to Red Crater. Along the way, which included yet more climbing, I had to stop because my legs cramped up, I was treated to spectacular views over the Oturere Valley, Rangipo Desert, Kaimanawa Ranges and down to the emerald lakes. I had lunch on the ridgeline of the Red Crater as I let the warm geyser steam compete with the wind.

I followed the lava flow from Red Crater spreading out across the floor of central crater. I descended slowly along the ridgeline to the Emerald Lakes. The colour is caused by minerals leached from the surrounding rock. The steam vents above the lake are responsible for the sulphurous smell. I followed the track around the edge of Central Crater before climbing up to Blue Lake (A cold acidic tapu[sacred] lake).

After walking past Blue Lake, the sensory changed dramatically again, spectacular views out over Mt Pihanga and Lake Rotoaira to Lake Taupo. The track then zigzaged down to the Ketetehai Hut then crossed the stream that flows down from Keteahi Springs, with beautiful rocks stained by minerals in the water. I descended past artic tundra into lush green beech forest, filled with small creeks and waterfall before emerging in a flat valley for my pick up back to Riverstone Backpackers.

I caught my bus at 5:40pm and arrived in Rotorua around 7:20pm and walked like a duck, from the erosion between my legs from the days walks to Base Hot Rock Hostel. At the hostel, they had a thermal hot tub and I soaleds away the days aches from my body.

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